Don Feidner

Southwest Iberian Coast

Last Update:   25 March 2013

Zurück zur Hauptseite!

Southwest Iberian Coast Tour - Spain to Portugal

Part 6 - Portugal - Olhao - Faro - Tavira

Algarve West Alvor to Sagres
0826 DSCN0438 Church Mexilhoeira Grande

After leaving the beautiful beach in Alvor, the next morning we rode briefly to Mexilhoeira Grande to donate some money to Pater Domingos da Costa to support his work with a senior village and his paroquial school. He is a priest at the church on the left, but his work is far more extensive than just being a priest. Check this link. I can gladly support this kind of work. If you would like to help him out, see the information at the bottom of the link page.  Rick was fascinated by the fact that the marigolds on the right were growing like weeds behind the church. In fact, they were growing in many places on the Algarve coast.

From there we travelled to Sagres, making a quick stop in Lagos on the way.

0832 DSCN0446-1 Marigolds Grow Like Weeds in Mexilhoeira Grande
0833 DSCN0449 Sagres
0837 P1190449 Sagres

Road to the Fortress on the Peninsula near Sagres

Sagres Beach Access Outside the Fortress Wall

One might expect a building to be here, but instead, it is just a fortress wall that extends from one side of the peninsula to the other. With cliffs over 100 feet on either side and all the way around the peninsula, there would be no way for enemies to get into the protected area behind the wall.

When I told the local people we were riding to Sagres Point, they chuckled and said something like. “Então, você quer ir a o babaca do mundo.” I didn’t understand until later why they were chuckling. If you want to know what they said, check it out in the google translator.

From Wikipedia: Sagres Sagres is a town located in the municipality of Vila do Bispo, Algarve, Portugal. It has a surface of 34,28 km² and a population of 1,939 (in 2001). Sagres Point, historically connected to the Portuguese Age of Discovery, is located there.  Prince Henry the Navigator (1394–1460) lived and died in Sagres.

0839 P1190451 Sagres

Inside the Gate of the Fortress

0844 DSCN0455 Sagres canon

Protection from Enemies

0861 P1190461 Sagres

Rick, Manning the Cannon

0846 DSCN0458 Sagres Fisherman

Fishing Inside the Fortress

0857 DSCN0474 Sagres

Sagres Point - Taking a Lunch Break

0866 P1190466 Sagres

The Tiny Lighthouse on Sagres Point

0869 DSCN0478 Sagres beach

Surf’’s UP

0882 P1190474 Sagres

Parsely Growing Wild

0885 P1190477 Sagres

Weeds Adapted to the Harsh, Windy, Dry Climate

0888 P1190478 Sagres

Chapel Inside the Walls

0893 P1190484 Sagres

Bus Stop in the Middle of Nowhere

After seeing this bus stop, I understood why the locals called this area the babaca do mundo. ;-)

0895 DSCN0492 Windmill Vila do Bispo

Original Portuguese Windmill at the Pottery

0897 P1190486 Lagos

Tourist Trap Restaurant at the Lagos Marina

When I visited this restaurant in 2008, the prices were about half that of the restaurants in the city. It offered fresh fish every day and was filled with locals and tourists who knew about this “secret” tip. This time, 5 years later, the prices had nearly tripled and the food was acceptable - a typical devopment in tourist areas when owners of such an establishment become greedy. Would I recommend it? Sure, if you want to pay more than you should for good food in Portugal. 

0904 P1190493 Lagos Harbor

Museum at the Entrance to Lagos Harbor

I love the city of Lagos. Of all the cities on the Algarve, Lagos has character that is largely unspoiled by tourism. It is an old walled city with many small streets and restaurants and pubs frequented by local inhabitants.

The statue of King Sebastian on the right in the town square of Lagos looks more like a space man than a conqueror, but this is the king of Portugal who was honored more than any other.The story of King Sebastian is a long, but interesting one.

(From Wikipedia)  Sebastian I (Portuguese: Sebastião 20 January 1554 - 4 August 1578) was King of Portugal and the Algarves from 11 June 1557 to 4 August 1578 and the penultimate Portuguese monarch of the House of Aviz.

He was the son of John Manuel, Prince of Portugal, and his wife, Joanna of Austria. He was the grandson of King John III of Portugal and Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Sebastian I is often referred to as The Desired (o Desejado), for the Portuguese people longed for his return, to end the decline of Portugal that had occurred because of his death.

Sebastian was born heir-apparent to the throne of Portugal, since his birth occurred two weeks after the death of his father. He succeeded to the throne at the age of three, on the death of King John III, his paternal grandfather.

Sebastian was a bright and lively boy. Reports say he was fearless due to having "so much strength". Tall, slim, and blond, he was brought up by his grandmother, Catherine, a domineering woman who exercised firm control over her weaker-willed grandson. Later in life, however, he became obstinate and impulsive.

During Sebastian's short personal reign, through diplomatic efforts, he strengthened ties with Germany, England and France. He also restructured much of the administrative, judicial and military life in his kingdom. In 1568, Sebastian created scholarships to help financially the students who wished to take medicine or pharmacy in the University of Coimbra.

The mathematician and cosmographer Pedro Nunes was appointed by Sebastian as a cosmography teacher for sea pilots. The number of shipwrecks decreased and almost every single ship arrived in port during the whole of Sebastian's reign.

When Abu Abdallah Mohammed II Saadi of Morocco lost his throne in 1576 and fled to Portugal, he asked for King Sebastian's help in defeating his Turkish-backed uncle and rival, Abu Marwan Abd al-Malik I Saadi. Despite having no son and heir, King Sebastian in 1578 embarked on his crusade. The Portuguese army of 17,000 men, including a significant number of foreign mercenaries (hired from the Holy Roman Empire, the Netherlands, Spain, and the Italian States), and almost all of the country's nobility, sailed at the beginning of June from Lisbon, visited Cadiz, where they expected to find the Spanish volunteers, who failed to appear, then crossed into Morocco.

At Arzila, Sebastian joined his ally Abu Abdullah Mohammed II, who had around
6,000 Moorish soldiers and, against the advice of his commanders, marched into the interior. At the Battle of Alcácer Quibir (Battle of the Three Kings), the Portuguese army was routed by Abd Al-Malik at the head of more than 60,000 men.
Sebastian was almost certainly killed in battle. He was last seen riding headlong into the enemy lines. Whether his body was ever found is uncertain, but Philip II of Spain claimed to have received his remains from Morocco and buried them in the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, Lisbon, after he ascended to the Portuguese throne in 1580, but the body could not be identified as Sebastian, which left people unconvinced of his death.

Several soldiers returned to Portugal, which, added to uncertainty over Sebastian's fate, led many Portuguese to believe Sebastian had survived the battle and would return to claim his throne. This led to Sebastianism: the belief that Sebastian could return at any moment.

During the time of the Iberian Union, between 1580 and 1640, four different pretenders claimed to be the returned King Sebastian; the last of these pretenders, who was in fact an Italian, was hanged in 1619.

In the long term, it led to the development of myths and legends concerning Sebastian, the principal one being that he was a great Portuguese patriot, the "sleeping king" who would return to help Portugal in its darkest hour. He would then be known by symbolic names: O Encoberto (The Hidden One) who would return on a foggy morning to save Portugal; or as O Desejado (The Desired One).

The legend was vigorously promoted through the massive circulation of popular rhymes (trovas) written by António Gonçalves de Bandarra. Even as late as the 19th century, Sebastianist peasants in the Brazilian sertão known as canudos, believed that the king would return to help them in their rebellion against the "godless" Brazilian republic.

0901 P1190491 Lagos

Lagos - Pedestrian Zone

0913 DSCN0497 Lagos Coast

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad)

0920 DSCN0502 Lagos Coast

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad)

0944 P1190513 Lagos

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad) - Rick

0949 P1190520 Lagos

Lagos - Natural Arch at Ponte Piedad

0950 DSCN0517-1 Lagos Coast Sheepshead
0834 DSCN0475 Sagres

The Fortress

0845 DSCN0456 Sagres Fort

Lonely Chapel

0849 DSCN0466 Sagres

At the Very End of Sagres Point

0859 DSCN0476 Sagres

Sagres Point - View to the Northwest

0860 P1190459 Sagres

Zoom Photo of the Lighthouse on the Northwest Point

0868 DSCN0477 Sagres beach

Surfer’s Beach near Sagres Point

0872 P1190468 Surfers Sagres

Waiting for a Wave

0883 P1190475 Sagres

Parsely Everywhere

After leaving the point, we headed for the lighthouse, but eventually decided it was nothing worth seeing. On the side of the road toward the Atlantic Ocean to the northwest, we came upon a small walled compound with living quarters and a chapel  inside.

0886 DSCN0487 Sagres Fort

Walled  Area near the Large Lighthouse

From the chapel, we headed north along the west coast of the Algarve - an endless road that was as barren as anything we had seen up to this point. After going about 10 kilometers, we turned back east and headed to the town of Vila do Bispo.

0891 P1190481 Sagres

Heading North on a Barren Highway

0894 DSCN0491-1 Potter Vila do Bispo

Pottery on the Road toward Lagos

0896 DSCN0493 Camp Lagos

Campground near Lagos

0903 P1190448 Lagos Harbor

Sailing Boat at the Lagos Marina

0898 P1190488 King Sebastiano Lagos

Lagos - King Sebastian

0899 DSCN0447 Lagos Pedestrian Zone

Lagos - Pedestrian Zone

0900 P1190490 Lagos

Lagos - Pedestrian Zone

0902 P1190492 Lagos

Lagos - City Square

0906 P1190495 Lagos

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad)

0918 P1190500 Lagos

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad)

0935 DSCN0510 Lagos Coast

Lagos - Point Piety (Piedad)

0946 P1190518 Lagos

Lagos - Ponte Piedad

0958 DSCN0525 Lagos Coast

Sheephead Rock - Ponte Piedad

0959 P1190522 Lagos Lighthouse Piedad

Lighthouse at Ponte Piedad

0964 P1190527 Lagos

One Last View at Ponte Piedad - Then On to Faro

Beach - Ponte Piedad

0960 P1190523 Lagos farm

Farm Untouched by Tourism at Ponte Piedad

FARO - Hauptstadt in der Algarve

Faro is the southernmost city in Continental Portugal. It is located in the Faro Municipality in southern Portugal.The city proper has 41,934 inhabitants and the entire municipality has 64.560 (2011). It is the seat of the Faro District and capital of the Algarve region.

The Ria Formosa lagoon attracted human occupants from the Palaeolithic age until the end of pre-history. During that time a settlement grew up – Ossonoba – which was an important town during the period of Roman occupation and, according to historians, the forerunner of present-day Faro.

With the advent of Moorish rule in the 8th century Ossonoba retained its status as the most important town in the southwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula. In the 9th century it became the capital of a short-lived princedom and was fortified with a ring of defensive walls. At this time the name Santa Maria began to be used instead of Ossonoba. Later on the town was known as Harun (from a local Muslim chieftain), hence its current name, Faro.
During the 500 years of Moorish rule there were some Jewish inhabitants in Faro who wrote copies of the Old Testament. One of Faro's historical names in Arabic is أخشونبة (ʼUḫšūnubaḧ). The Moors were defeated by the forces of the Portuguese King Afonso III in 1249. With the decline of the importance of the city of Silves, Faro took over the role of administration of the Algarve area.

Lagos had become the capital of the historical province of Algarve in 1577 and remained so until 1756, the year following the destruction of much of the town by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. Almost all the coastal towns and villages of the Algarve were heavily damaged, except Faro, which was protected by the sandy banks of Ria Formosa lagoon. Since then Faro has been the administrative seat of the region.

Algarve Mid FARO to Tavira
0970 DSCN0528 Faro Cathedral

Faro Cathedral - Home to Storks

0972 P1190533 Stork on Faro Cathedral

Looks Like a Nice Place to Perch!

0974 P1190534 Faro

Rick on the City Square

0977 P1190537 Flying Stork Faro

Graceful Stork in Faro

0980 DSCN0531 Faro

Stork Couple - Married 60 Years

0984 DSCN0535-1 Olhao

Olhao - Empty Cafés but Sunshine and 60°

0986 DSCN0537 Olhao

Olhao - At Least One Customer was Getting Fat on Ice Cream

0988 P1190539 Olhao

Olhao - Rick Enjoying the Weather

0991 P1190541 Olhao

Olhao - Low Tide

0995 P1190543 Olhao

Olhao - OK! I like boats!

0998 DSCN0544 Olhao Grafitti
0968 DSCN0526 Faro Cathedral

Faro Cathedral

0971 P1190532 Stork on  Faro Cathedral

Faro Cathedral - Sleeping Stork

0973 DSCN0529 Faro

City Square  - Faro

0975 P1190535 Faro

Chapel in Faro

0978 DSCN0530 Faro

Cathedral in Faro

0983 DSCN0534 Olhao

Olhao - Our Last Campgroubefore Leaving Portungal

0987 DSCN0538 Olhao boats

Olhao - Low Tide at the Boat Beach

0990 P1190540 Olhao

Olhao - Crabbing

0992 DSCN0540-1 Olhao

Olhao - Low Tide

0994 P1190542 Olhao

Olhao - OK! I like boats!

0997 DSCN0543 Olhao Grafitti
0999 DSCN0545 Olhao Grafitti
1000 DSCN0546 Olhao Grafitti

Graffitti in Olhao - Not Bad!

1004 P1190547 Olhao

Roman Architecture in Olhao

1008 DSCN0550 Olhao Roman Aquaduct

Roman Aquaduct in Olhao

1014 P1190551 Fuseta Dogs

Dogs in Fuseta

Tavira's origins date back to the late Bronze Age (1.000-800 BC). In the 8th century BC it became one of the first Phoenician settlements in the Iberian West. The Phoenicians created a colonial urban center here with massive walls, at least two temples, two harbours and a regular urban structure. Phoenician Tavira existed until the end of 6th Century BC, when it was destroyed by conflict.

It is thought its original name was Baal Saphon, named after the Phoenician Thunder and Sea god. This name later became Balsa.

After a century of being abandoned, the settlement recovered, during the urban bloom that characterised the so-called Tartessian Period, and became bigger than ever. This second urban center, Tartessian Tavira, was also abandoned by the end of the 4th Century BC.
The main centre then moved to nearby Cerro do Cavaco, a fortified hill occupied until the time of Emperor Augustus.

During the time of Caesar, the Romans created a new port, some 7 km from Tavira, named Balsa. Balsa became a big town, in fact much bigger than Tavira, that grew, prospered and decayed in parallel with the Roman Empire. When the Moors conquered Iberia, in the 8th Century, Balsa was already extinct as a town. Under Roman rule, Tavira was a secondary passing place on the important road between Balsa and Baesuris (today Castro Marim).

The Moorish occupation of Tavira between the 8th and 13th centuries left its mark on the agriculture, architecture and culture of the area. That influence can still be seen in Tavira today with its whitewashed buildings, Moorish style doors and rooftops. A castle, two mosques and palaces were built by the Moors.

1018 P1190554 Tavira

Rick in Tavira

1025 DSCN0560 Tavira fountain

Tavira - City Center

1026 DSCN0561 Tavira

Tavira - City Center

1005 P1190548 Olhao

This Aquaduct leads to Three Water Tanks

1006 DSCN0548 Olhao Roman Aquaduct

Roman Aquaduct in Olhao

1009 DSCN0551-1 Olhao Roman Aquaduct

Pump House in Olhao

In much of Portugal, the dogs run loose. Only the dogs behind fences or those that are tied up that seem to be dangerous. Those that run loose are generally docile and never chase the bicycles.

1017 DSCN0555 Tavira

Arrival in Tavira

1022 P1190558 Tavira

Tavira Square

1024 DSCN0559 Tavira

Tavira

1027 DSCN0562 Tavira

Tavira

1031 DSCN0566 Tavira

Tavira

1039 P1190565 Tavira

Tavira

1037 P1190563 Tavira

Tavira

1038 P1190564 Tavira lunch

Tavira

1041 P1190566 Tavira soldiers monument

Tavira

1028 DSCN0563 Tavira

Tavira

1043 P1190568 Tavira

Tavira

1048 P1190572 Tavira

Tavira Monastery

1052 DSCN0573 Tavira Monastery

Tavira Monastery

1058 DSCN0578 Fixing the Foot

Cooling my Feet on the Way Back to Olhao

1060 DSCN0580 Olhao

Olhao Boat Dock

1062 P1190578 Olhao boat at sunset

Olhao at Sunset

1068 DSCN0583 Faro Beach

Faro Beach

On the way to Faro beach ("Praia de Faro") from the airport you pass a beautiful pine forest on the west. The beach is known as Ilha de Faro (The Island of Faro) and is on the Ancão Peninsula. On the island, there are shops, bars, restaurants and places to sleep - all packed tightly together on the extremely narrow 7 km-long island.

The beach on the seaward side is a magnificent stretch of golden sand - flat and easily accessible from the paved promenade that runs along the beach. There are many water sports available at Praia de Faro - windsurfing, sailing, jet skiing and it is a great beach for swimming.

1071 P1190586 Faro Beach

Faro Beach

After 1000 km on a bike, I feel fantastic and would like to continue. It’s always a difficult time to leave such a wonderful place to return home, but at the same time, I look forward to seeing my family and friends again.

Part 1 - Jerez de la Frontera to Seville

Part 2 - Seville, Andalucia - Plaza of Spain

Part 3 - Coria del Rio to the Portuguese Border

Part 4 - Portugal - Castro Marim - Armação de Pêra

Part 5 - Portugal - Ferragudo - Portimao - Alvor

1032 DSCN0567 Tavira

Tavira

1035 P1190561 Tavira

Tavira

1042 P1190567 Tavira

In memory of the corageous residents of Tavira and Faro, who during the political crisis from 1383 to 1385, defended this bridge for King John, Master of Avis and proclaimed the decisive victory for the Algarve in the fight for the independence of Portugal.

The impressive seven arched "Roman bridge" is now not considered to be Roman after a recent archaeological survey, but originates from a 12th Century Moorish bridge. This was a good time economically for Tavira, which established itself an important port for sailors and fishermen. The area stayed rural until the 11th Century when Moorish Tavira (from the Arabic Tabira, "the hidden") started to grow rapidly, becoming one of the important (and independent) towns of the Algarve, then the South-Western extreme of Gharb al-Andalus (the West of Islamic Iberian territories).

In 1242 Dom Paio Peres Correia took Tavira back from the Moors in a bloody conflict of retaliation after seven of his principal Knights were killed during a period of truce, the population of the town was decimated during this battle. Christians were now back in control of Tavira and though most Muslims left the town some remained in a Moorish quarter known as "Mouraria".

1034 P1190560 Tavira

Tavira

1046 P1190570 Tavira Monastery

Tavira Monastery

The 1755 Earthquake

In the 17th Century the port on its river was of considerable importance, shipping produce such as salt, dried fish and wine. Like most of the Algarve its buildings were virtually all destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. This earthquake is thought to have reached a magnitude of 9 on the Richter scale and caused extensive damage throughout the Algarve due to shockwaves and tsunamis. The earthquake is referred to as the Lisbon Earthquake due to its terrible effects on the capital city, although the epicentre was some 200 km west-southwest of Cape St. Vincent in the Algarve.

The city has since been rebuilt with many fine 18th century buildings along with its 37 churches. A 'Roman' (actually Moorish) bridge links the two parts of the town across the River Gilão. The church of Santa Maria do Castelo, built on the site of a Moorish mosque, holds the tombs of Dom Paio Peres Correia and his knights. The church dates from the 13th century and the clock tower has been remodeled from the original Muslim minaret. A bust of Dom Paio Perres Correia who died in 1275 can be seen on the corner of the town hall. Its original economic reliance on the fishing industry has now passed due to changed migration patterns of Tuna and further silting up of the river Gilao. The population is in the region of 25,000 inhabitants(municipality of Tavira) supporting a military base whilst the surrounding area is still fairly rural and undeveloped. This is now changing due to the demands of the tourist industry and opening of golf courses in the near vicinity. The beach for this town lies past the salt pans and is reached by a ferryboat that takes the visitor to the sand-bar island known as Ilha de Tavira, part of the Ria Formosa. The island and beaches can also be reached from the nearby footbridge in Santa Luzia.

1051 DSCN0572 View from Monastery Tavira

Tavira

1056 P1190575 Tavira

Tavira Chapel

1059 DSCN0554 Water Wheel Tavira

Water Wheel

1064 P1190580 Olhao

Olhao Boat Dock

1065 P1190581 Faro eating on a boat

On the Way to Faro Airport - Eating on a Boat

1069 P1190584 Faro Beach

Sunning on Faro Beach

1078 DSCN0591 Faro Airport

Faro Airport - Preparing to Return Home

Web Design
["Ride into the Future"] [Fahrt in die Zukunft] [Sponsors] [Bicycle Touring] [Questions] [About Don] [Portugal 2008] [Cycling the Danube River] [Trips] [Sicily 2012] [Tilmann Waldthaler] [USA 2010] [Prag 1] [LIVIGNO] [Holland] [French Rivera] [Spain] [Graubunden] [Tours Near My Home] [Other Trips] [Longest Ride] [Health] [Book]

RETURN to Don Feidner’s
HOME PAGE